Geng Xiaoyun, owner of Kunyuan restaurant in Beijing, has been forced to remove American salt-baked chicken feet, known as “phoenix talons,” from his menu due to a 30% tariff increase on imported American goods. While he considers American chicken feet superior—describing them as spongy and tasty—he has found alternatives from Brazil and Russia unsatisfactory. Geng hopes prices for American chicken feet will eventually decrease, provided there are no drastic shifts in global political conditions.
The trade tensions between China and the U.S. have intensified, particularly following accusations regarding violations of a 90-day tariff pause agreed upon in Geneva. The Chinese Commerce Ministry has pointed to U.S. export controls on artificial intelligence chips as actions that undermine the agreement. As a result, American agricultural products are disappearing from Chinese markets, with restaurants like Home Plate, known for its American barbecue, ceasing to serve American beef in favor of Australian imports.
Australian beef enjoys an advantage with zero import duty under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, although there are safeguard limits. Liu Li, a long-time beef supplier, noted that tariffs have caused U.S. beef prices to surge by 50%, impacting its availability. Despite its richer taste, the high prices associated with American beef are becoming unmanageable for customers and restaurants alike. The ongoing trade war is casting a shadow over the future supply and pricing of these beloved American food products in China.
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